![]() Snakes generally do not eat while they are in the shed cycle.Īlways have fresh, clean water available for your ball python. Do not be alarmed if a well-started ball python goes off feed during the cooler, drier times of the year, as this is common in captivity. Offer your ball python food every 10 to 14 days until it is interested in eating again, as the snake will eventually resume feeding normally.įeed adult ball pythons every 1 to 2 weeks and younger ball pythons weekly as they need this energy to grow. If your ball python is healthy, continue your husbandry routine as usual, but keep the amount of handling to a minimum. This is typically nothing to worry about with healthy, well-established pythons, although it can be extremely frustrating to the snakekeeper. Be prepared for the possibility of your ball python going off feed, and keep an observant eye on the snake’s overall condition and body weight. Never leave a live rodent unattended with any snake, as they can injure the snake.īall pythons are well-known for not eating at certain times throughout the year, particularly in the winter months. Ball pythons can be fed frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents. Do not handle your ball python for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Ball pythons can eat rats from the time they are young – starting off with rat pups or “crawlers” at first and moving up in size as they grow. “Appropriately sized” means prey items that are no bigger in circumference than the ball python at its largest circumference. What Food to Feed a Ball Pythonįeed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent weekly. ![]() Never use any substrate containing cedar, as it contains oils that can be deadly to reptiles! Avoid sand, shavings and peat bedding. Maintaining proper humidity will allow your ball python to shed properly.Ĭypress mulch, coco coir and orchid bark are great substrates for controlling humidity, but remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more) as too little. Ball pythons seem to prefer humidity levels of 70 to 80 percent. Continuous bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal species such as the ball python. Supplemental lighting is not necessary for ball pythons, but if used should run on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they can heat unevenly over too small of a surface area and can cause serious burns. Use thermostats, rheostats, and/or reptile timers to control your heat source. With heat emitters and basking bulbs, it is crucial to keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Undercage heating pads and tapes, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime and red night bulbs) are just a few. There are several types of snake heat lamps that help heat a ball python enclosure. Perches are great additions to your ball python’s enclosure.
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